Port Tino Rossi
Born in Ajaccio in 1907, Constantin ‘Tino’ Rossi was a French singer and actor who recorded over 2000 songs and starred in some 25 films. Aside from Napoleon Bonaparte, he is one of the most well-known people to hail from Ajaccio, a city which still celebrates him to this day.
The port is snugly nestled just inside the imposing edifice of Ajaccio’s old citadel and very outer close to its historic centre. We had a berth here for 4 days in total to have unforeseen repairs done by the excellent Ajaccio Marine Centre located in the port. While the town quay berths are right in the heart of the action, the outer pontoons are more tranquil and it’s only a 5 minute walk around the harbour. Prices were reasonable at around 130 Euros a night, albeit in low season, and there’s a chandlery, two restaurants and a fuel station with shop on the outer harbour wall. Tino Rossi is smaller and less ‘touristy’ than the larger Charles Ornano port to the north, although this does boast bigger chandleries and more facilities,
Although the wide Ajaccio bay is open to the west and south-west, it is actually better sheltered than you might think. We spent several days at anchorages around the bay, most notably the beach at the head of the bay which is calm in all but the strongest westerlies. We also sent a couple of nights tucked just inside the Sanguinnaires islands on the northern side of the bay’s entrance. They are called Iles de Sanguinnaires, “The Bloodthirsty Islands’, because of the numerous unlucky ships who have foundered on their jagged and very inhospitable rocks, and they need a wide berth when the predominant westerly swell is pounding through the small gaps between them.
Ajaccio is a good place for a crew swap or to meet people, with the international airport just a few miles out of town and the train links with Bastia and Calvi. It’s a convivial enough place to while away a couple of days even if it’s not the most dramatic or beautiful Corsica towns, for which Bonifacio and Calvi are hard to beat.
Ajaccio is a place full of history and well worth a day or two exploring. As with any capital city, it is busy, buzzing and can be crowded, especially when a cruise ship is alongside. But the old quarter is undeniably charming and boasts an excellent permanent market on the waterfront. The city has great restaurants and shopping, and several good museums. A trip along the coast to the Pirata headland makes a very pleasant day out.